One summer, I rented a camp on Lake Pontchartrain with a long pier extending far out over the water. But my dreams of catching untold numbers of fish and crabs were dashed because the shell dredgers which dotted the lake back then, now illegal, had permanently muddied the water and run away the fish. All that were left were schools of large mullet.
But mullets, of course, were "trash fish." No one …